Mugler’s Spring 2021 Ready-to-Wear collection by creative director Casey Cadwallader, is unapologetically sexy and fiercely inclusive. The collection draws upon the couture house’s heritage and how it fits into today’s world. It is a bold new step for the brands image, as they transition to a see-now-buy-now business model, with a focus on sourcing sustainable materials and achieving more accessible prices.
Cadwallader was initially inspired by the house’s founder Thierry Mugler’s 1999 Haute Couture collection with its sliced dresses and suits, conveying a minimalist fantasy adventure aesthetic. The collection also attempts to appeal to the youth of today by including body-conscious apparel and body-positive models.
As always, Mugler’s clothes display stark and segmented tailoring, inspired by the various geometric shapes used in architecture. There are dramatically cut-out bodysuits, clingy jersey dresses with asymmetric necklines, and suits with graphic cutouts connected with invisible stretch tulle. One of the repeated looks across the collection is the 100% recycled lycra body stockings made with next gen illusion mesh, designed in two shades of nude for various skin tones. Cadwallader has also done a new take on his signature spiral-cut jeans, bonding denim and jersey, made of 100% recycled nylon.
The various design techniques used in this collection are representational of what makes the Mugler House so exceptional in the world of fashion. This is shown through the sculptural shapes and proportions of the garments in trompe l’oeil fabrics and curvy lines. The details used to accessorize the collection include spliced suits and lingerie materials and shapes to add a sense of hypersexuality to the clothing. The slingback shoes covered in sheer stockings give a fantasy uniform vibe, exuding power, determination and confidence.
Looking back and analyzing the collection as a whole, we can see the drastic measures Mugler is taking as a major player in the fashion world, towards a more sustainable and inclusive brand identity. Casey Cadwallader is maintaining the fashion house’s hypersexual and hyper-fantasy aesthetic, all while exploring the youth culture of today, and their influence on style.
By Nina Clements
Founder and CEO of ROOTS Magazine